Thursday, October 1, 2009

Mancora, Peru

We found out that the extended tourist/business visa (12-9 Visa) has been changed to only be 90-days in Ecuador...
So we decided, after much deliberation and discussion, that heading to the beach sounded best. We wanted something relatively easy to get to - and we stumbled upon a little surf town on the northern shore of Peru called Mancora.
The trip here was filled with the usual curvy and half-paved roads typical of Ecuador - full of lush forests and beautiful vistas.

We come to the international highway - which had a bridge being upgraded, which we crossed after following the construction workers (who waved us on very energetically, it was odd), only to find the immigration offices were no where to be found. We had crossed into Peru illegally
*gasp*. Our taxi driver wisely suggested we get properly stamped for our stay in Peru and we went into Huaquillas - the border town with Peru.

We found out that we had to get 'stamped' out of Ecuador before actually 'entering' Peru - so for those reading this who plan to come to wonderful Mancora - word to the wise, stop on the lefthand side of the road and Immigracion de Ecuador BEFORE crossing the border into Peru.
The market in downtown Huaquillas was bustling when we arrived, around lunchtime, forcing us to go around to the outskirts of town (by the dump - oh what fun). Once you go over the bridge into Peru you'll go for a ways - leaving the town - and come to a military stop point. Just on the other side is the Immigracion de Peru - where they charge you to park, a guy offers to help you fill out the immigration forms (for $1 each, which you find out AFTER - but no surprise regardless), and then you go inside and get a 90-day Tourist stamp. We find out later that our taxi driver was charged $20 to get the truck into the country - oh well...
You drive for about two hours, through crazy extremely dry desert terrain, intermingled with rice field after rice field - so basically they're diverting all of the water to the rice paddies and everything else looks like the Sahara - crazy.
Not too far and you start riding parallel to the beautiful ocean - but the towns are small and very poor - truly 'dirt' poor. Really makes you appreciate how blessed you truly are...
You eventually get pulled over by the Policia - asking for documents - good thing we turned around and did that! That would've sucked. A bit further, in the middle of nowhere, you encounter a large Customs facility - where they stop and open up one of your bags - promptly ripping open a zip-lock bag of aluminum foil-wrapped essential oils and open a few bottles of herbs...then they let you go merrily on your way with a "Gracias" and "Bienvenido a Peru".
Not too far after that you pass Punta Sal - where Hemingway wrote one of his novels - look it up 'cuz I can't remember.
We eventually get to Mancora - an interesting little surf town with a ton of restaurants and open air craft market. We take a right just passed the really nice quaint little church and enter a sandy little road with shops on each side - there are moto-taxis that look like Balinese rickshaws all over the place! You basically drive all the way to the beach and take a right on the last "street" - which is nothing but sand. Drive amongst the little private houses hiding behind
walls about 20 feet tall and arrive at the door "Samana Chakra" - a little place we found on the internet that specializes in yoga and great food.
It's like finding a little paradise in the middle of the desert - surrounded by nothing - but with waves and wind that reminds me of San Francisco. It's a cool breeze as we walk up to our private bungalow - the workers here all help us unpile our 'house' of bags in about a third the time it took Lenny (the taxi driver from Vilcabamba) and I to load it that morning. We walk up and in to a huge bungalow with french doors opening onto a little green grass just before the beach - the waves crashing right outside!

The open air bathroom - literally NO ROOF - is amazing, and the full moon the past few nights, with Venus blazing brightly, is stunning. The beds are fresh and soft (finally!) with a wonderful
cool breeze.
Our chef just got back from Argentina yesterday night and the food is amazing! They blend chinese spices with fresh seafood - well it can't easily be described! Yesterday we had a private yoga session with Stan, an older gentlemen from Scotland that has been studying yoga in India for a while - yoga is included in the price, as is our food.
This morning we had another private yoga session (no one else is staying here right now!) and tomorrow we hit the surf for some private lessons with the son of the lady of the house (Louis). I think we've found paradise here - and with an almost 3:1 exchange rate, it's pretty darn cheap too!
The sunsets are amazing - and the trip into town this afternoon highlighted the wonderful German cafe (Angela's Place) with Strudel and an extensive diverse menu. The beer here is WAY better then in Ecuador - like 10 times better - and with more then just two options (both pilsner).
There are tons of younger surfer type people here - seemingly a lot of Brits and Euros - but it's nice to see that we're not the only whities here. And believe it or not but our server here is from Boulder, taking a break from a semester of college - small world indeed!
So, I don't see us leaving anytime soon - this is our new home for now - and we'll see where we go from here; but for now - we're loving life. Tomorrow I learn to surf with my wife. Now that's sweet.
Oh, and there's a little three year old girl here that is the daughter of one of the cooks and ground-keeper - she's adorable, and Aedan is in heaven!

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